It may be eff-all like the original sallow-cheeked, cerebral original, but that hasn’t stopped Guy Ritchie’s new interpretation of Conan Doyle’s detective being the divine inspiration behind John Galliano’s latest collection for hs own label. The new James Bond mold Ritchie has given the Sherlock Holmes legend has turned him from an opium-smoking violinist with unnerving powers of logic to a kick-boxing, suave womanizer out to get the bad guys. Well it’s certainly got one little boy’s heart racing; Galliano’s show captured the essence of this new Holmes with all the pizzazz it deserves.
Opening was a smirking Sherlock replete with pipe and ‘tash; these incarnations stomped the runway with in layered trench coats and tweeds, plus-fours and of course, the iconic deerstalkers a-plenty. Next came the slightly more refined idealised homme, Dr Watson. Pinstripes and trenches were much more fitted compared to Holme’s drop-crotch swagger, with one Watson sporting a rather dapper cape and plenty of fob watches to go round. Galliano even trussed his boys up in corsetted underpants; deconstruction of Victorian apparel at its best? A comment on the character Watson’s submissive role to his friend Sherlock’s thrusting stride in Conan Doyle’s tales? Or a 21st century cross-dressing spin for the modern metrosexual dandy? Who knows.
The adventure didn’t end there; next up, the bad guys. In clichés good enough for a Tintin comic, the Far East was shon with painted faces, wooden sandals, long black braids and Chinese hats, though the sunglasses gave it a bad-security guy feel. The silk prints were beautiful and layered with more dropped crotchs and chiffon. There were also, on some very chiselled and shiny abs, some references to that great and stylish Victorian blood sport, boxing, with laced boxers and boottees. Finally, with firey jets springing from the catwalk, the pirate king of fashion himself took his bow. Truly an hommage to his Saville Row roots made fun and frivolous with plenty of starter points for the next season of menswear.
Watch a video of Galliano’s AW 2010 Menswear collection on Youtube here courtesy of the “Parismodesen” channel.